Colombia

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Overview | Safety Tips | Culture | History | Sightseeing | Money Matters | Support | Map

Overview:

Colombia, in northwestern South America, is the only country on the continent with both Atlantic and Pacific Ocean coasts. It is a land of contrasts, which include rugged mountains, high plateaus, deep valleys, and vast expanses of lowland tropical forests and grasslands. The difficulty of travel in the mountains and varied climates, soils and vegetation have all led to the development of different ways of life in different parts of the country. Almost three-quarters of the people live in cities or towns, where most of the schools, medical facilities and cultural activities are located. In recent years, rural families lacking the education and skills for professional jobs poured into the cities, which now face high poverty and unemployment problems, inadequate housing and high crime. The edges of the cities display crowded squatter settlements with no running water, electricity or sewers.

Rural families cultivate small farms or work as laborers on large estates. Coffee, one of the nation's leading exports, is grown on small family farms where the whole family is involved in the labor-intensive operation. Most families are large, especially in rural areas. Family ties are strong, and several generations may live in the same house or as neighbors.

Colombia claims to have the highest number of species of plants and animals per unit area of any country in the world. Its animals include jaguars, ocelots, peccaries, tapirs, deer, armadillo, numerous species of monkey and the rare spectacled bear. There are more than 1920 recorded species of birds (more than in the whole of Europe and North America combined), ranging from the huge Andean condor to the tiny hummingbird. Equally abundant marine life includes the predacious piranha and the electric eel. Colombia's herbariums have classified over 130,000 plants.

Colombia has 34 national parks, 12 state-run nature reserves and 120 privately owned and administered nature reserves. The combined area of the national parks and state-run reserves constitutes 8.1% of the country's territory.

As the country lies close to the equator, the average temperature varies little throughout the year, although it does vary with altitude. Colombia's equatorial climate features two seasons: verano (dry) and invierno (wet). But because of the country's complex geographical and altitudinal factors, there is no universal pattern of seasons.

Population: 45 million
Capital City: Bogotá
People: 58% mestizo (of European-Indian descent), 20% European descent, 14% mulatto (African-European descent), 4% African descent, 4% other
Language: Spanish
Religion: Catholic (95%), mixture of traditional, Episcopal & Jewish faiths (5%)

Safety Tips:

Colombia's biggest challenge continues to be the struggle against guerilla warfare, city gangs and illicit drug cartels. The country has existed in a state of unofficial civil war for many years; the government struggling to maintain power over the many guerilla groups that terrorize city neighborhoods and claim rural areas as their own. As long as you avoid all overland travel and stick to major cities and tourist areas, pay attention to the news, and keep your wits about you at all times, you'll be fine.

Overall, while internal security in the country is on the up, Colombia can be a dangerous place to travel. Theft is the most common danger, so take every precaution to keep belongings secure.

Officially, there are 3000 abductions per year. Tourists aren't targets specifically, but cases have been reported. The police have a mixed reputation, so avoid them unless absolutely necessary. Be aware that criminals may impersonate police. On a more positive note, there is an increased number of tourist police.

Areas of reasonably safe travel are limited due to military activity. The entire area east of the Andes (except Leticia and its environs) should be avoided, as should off-the-beaten-track travel. Avoid demonstrations and political gatherings. Drugs, especially cocaine, are prevalent and you should never be found in possession of them. Don't accept drinks or cigarettes from strangers as they may be laced with borrachero, a tasteless, odorless soporific drug.

Culture:

Colombia is an ethnic mosaic, reflected in its culture, folklore, arts and crafts. The different roots and traditions of the Indians, Spanish and Africans have produced interesting fusions, particularly in crafts, sculpture and music. Pre-Columbian art consists primarily of stone sculpture, pottery and goldwork. Indian basketware, weaving and pottery date back to pre-Columbian times but now fuse modern techniques with traditional designs. Colombian music incorporates both the African rhythms of the Caribbean, Cuban salsa and heavily Spanish-influenced Andean music.

Spanish is Colombia's official language and, except for some remote Indian tribes, all Colombians speak it. There are also about 65 Indian languages - and nearly 300 dialects - still used in the country. While the education system includes English in its curriculum, it remains little known and rarely spoken.

Catholicism remains the dominant religion although over three million followers have recently left the Catholic faith and hooked up to other congregations (Anglican, Lutheran, Mormon, etc) or various religious sects.

Colombian cuisine consists largely of chicken, pork, potato, rice, beans and soup. Interesting regional dishes include: ajiaco (soup made with chicken and potato which is a Bogotano speciality); hormiga culona (a sophisticated dish, unique to Santander, consisting largely of fried ants); and lechona (whole suckling pig, spit-roasted and stuffed with rice and dried peas, which is a speciality of Tolima). The variety of fruit is astounding, the coffee and beer more than adequate and the wine execrable.

Normal courtesies should be observed. It is customary to offer guests black Colombian coffee, well sugared, called tinto. Spanish style and culture can still be seen in parts of the country, although in Bogotá, North American attitudes and clothes are becoming prevalent. Casual clothes can be worn in most places; formal attire will be necessary for exclusive dining rooms and social functions. Smoking is allowed except where indicated.

History:

Prior to the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century, the territory was inhabited by the highly developed and sophisticated Chibca Indians. Spanish occupation began in the 17th century; it was consolidated in the viceroyalty of New Granada, which covered the northern part of South America, during the early 18th century. Discontent among various parts of the population - indigenous inhabitants, lower-class Spanish immigrants and mixed-race Creoles - with the arbitrary nature of colonial rule, eventually led to the 1819 rebellion under the legendary figure of Simon Bolivar. New Granada became Gran Colombia, divided into four provinces (roughly equivalent to the four present-day countries of Colombia, Panama, Ecuador and Venezuela). Colombia separated from the others soon after Bolivar's death in 1830. Political divisions focused on the extent of the future role of the Catholic Church; these differences were reflected politically in the formation of the Liberal and Conservative Parties and have played a major role in Colombian politics ever since.

The Republic of Colombia was formally established in 1855, four years after the abolition of slavery. Over the next 100 years, Colombian politics were dominated by the Conservative-Liberal feud, which often broke out into warfare. Periods of democratic government alternated with dictatorships. There were occasions, however, when the two parties were able to unite to see off a common threat. This occurred in 1970, when they joined forces to prevent a bid for power by the Alianza Nacional Popular (ANAPO), led by the former dictator, General Rojas. At a desperately close election in April 1970, which needed four recounts, Rojas was narrowly defeated by Dr Misael Pastrana Borrero, the candidate for the National Front alliance of Liberals and Conservatives.

The 1970 election was a turning point in Colombia's recent history. Disaffected members of ANAPO formed a guerrilla movement known as Movimiento 19 de Abril (M-19), which initiated a 15-year-long guerrilla campaign against the government. They were soon joined in insurrection by two other left-wing groups, Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC, Colombian Revolutionary Armed Forces) and the Ejercito de Liberacion Nacional (ELN, National Liberation Army). While the three groups waged their campaigns with varying degrees of success, orthodox politics were taken over by the Conservative-Liberal duopoly. Meanwhile, a third potent force emerged during the 1980s, in the form of organized drug traffickers (known as cartels and identified generally by their cities of origin - hence 'Cali cartel', 'Medellín cartel'). Their control of large sums of money now began to be turned into political power and leading politicians increasingly became tainted by their connections with drug money.

A number of right-wing paramilitary groups, variously associated with the traffickers and/or elements of the military and security forces, have also emerged to play an increasingly influential and brutal role in the conflict. In September 1989, M-19 formally gave up their armed struggle and committed themselves - unsuccessfully, in retrospect - to constitutional politics. Three years earlier, in 1986, the presidential election had been won by the Liberals under Virgilio Barco Vargas. The Liberals were victorious at the next two elections, giving the party 12 uninterrupted years in control of the Presidency. Vargas was succeeded by Cesar Gaviria and then by Ernesto Samper in 1994.

By 1998, the electorate had had enough of the Liberals and returned Andrés Pastrana, a conservative and former mayor of Bogotá (with a somewhat chequered record in office) standing under the banner of a Grand Alliance for Change. By now, the country was in the grip of the struggle between the government, traffickers, right-wing paramilitaries and left-wing guerrillas. Successive American governments, having marked Colombia down as the principal source of drugs flowing into the USA, put increasing pressure on the Colombians to prosecute the 'war on drugs'. Meanwhile, the strategy of the leftist guerrillas concentrated on the creation of 'liberated areas', within which government forces are unable or unwilling to operate. The 15,000-strong FARC, the largest of the groups, negotiated a formal withdrawal by all government forces from a large area south of Bogota - effectively a 'liberated zone' - at the end of 1998. The US administration was infuriated by the agreement, which put the guerrillas in effective control of one-third of the country.

In 2000, the US Clinton administration unveiled 'Plan Colombia', a massive military support program, valued at $1 billion, for the Colombian armed forces. Although portrayed as the latest phase of the 'war on drugs', it is clear that the program is essentially political and strategic - the objective is to destroy FARC and its allies. The Bush administration, which inherited 'Plan Colombia' after its victory at the November 2000 poll in the USA, endorsed the plan and, with some modifications, put it into operation. Its first effects became apparent the following year, when military forces retook part of the former 'liberated zone' after the breakdown of the agreement between FARC and the government. The new hard line adopted by the government was confirmed in May 2002, when the right-winger Alvaro Uribe, who favors all-out war against the left-wing guerrillas, won a comfortable victory at the presidential election. Uribe immediately declared a partial state of emergency, allowing to impose security measures by decree. The focus of the war has shifted somewhat since FARC launched attacks in cities from mid-2002 onwards. At the beginning of 2003, the war was ratcheted up another notch when American special forces troops became directly engaged for the first time in the eastern province of Arauca.

Sightseeing:

Bahía Solano and El Valle

These two settlements on the Pacific coast of Chocó, approximately 150 miles west of Medellín, are gradually developing into holiday resorts. Facilities are threadbare yet the beaches, especially Playa Larga in El Valle, are excellent. The two towns are good bases to organize boat excursions upriver and there are plenty of opportunities to thrash about in thick tropical jungle or stumble upon dozing wildlife. Nearby, the Parque Nacional Ensenada de Utría, which includes Isla de Salomón, is a good location for whale and dolphin-spotting.

Bogotá

Bogotá, the country's capital, is the quintessence of all things Colombian: a city of futuristic architecture, a vibrant and diverse cultural and intellectual life, splendid colonial churches and brilliant museums. It is also a city of beggars, drug dealers and traffic jams.

Walking the city's streets and observing the hustle and bustle, the avalanches of busetas, the extravagant stores and roadside stalls, is as fascinating as contemplating the serene atmosphere of the city's colonial churches and museums, so give yourself plenty of time for exploration.

Caribbean Coast (Columbia)

The Caribbean Coast around Cartagena features a handful of impressive Spanish forts, including the 17th-century Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, undoubtedly the greatest and strongest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in their colonies.

The Islas del Rosario, 35km (22mi) offshore southwest of Cartegena, have magnificent coral reefs and abundant marine life, making them popular with snorkellers and scuba divers. The L-shaped peninsula south of the old town contains the upmarket holiday resorts of Bocagrande and El Laguito.

Cartagena

Cartagena de Indias is legendary both for its history and its beauty.It has been immortalized on countless canvases, glorified in hundreds of books and photographed repeatedly - and, as Colombia's most fascinating city and a World Heritage Site, it deserves every one of these tributes.

The walled old town of this fortified Spanish colonial port is a gem. It's packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and noble mansions with overhanging balconies and shady patios. It pays just to wander through the old town, but some of the highlights are the Palacio de la Inquisición; the informative Museo del Oro Arqueología; and Muelle de los Pegasos, the lovely old port of Cartagena on the Bahía de las Ánimas.

The less touristy Getsemaní, the outer walled town, also has charming pockets but is not so well-preserved.

The Southwest

The two biggest attractions in the southwest are the archaeological sites of San Agustín and Tierradentro, and the colonial city of Popayán. Both San Agustín and Tierradentro are littered with ancient statues, tombs and burial mounds, while Popayán has many churches, museums and streets lined with colonial mansions. Cali, Colombia's third-largest city, is noted more for its laid-back atmosphere than its tourist attractions.

San Andrés

This archipelago in the Caribbean Sea lies 750km (465mi) northwest of the Colombian mainland and 230km (140mi) east of Nicaragua. The southern group of islands is clustered around the seahorse-shaped San Andrés and 90km (55mi) to the north, mountainous Providencia is plopped into the tropical sea.

San Andrés especially has been affected by a duty-free inspired tourist boom, but the charm and beauty of these islands has been largely retained. The turquoise waters, extensive coral reefs and rich marine life are a paradise for snorkelers and scuba divers while sun-soaked cays make soaking up UVs seem almost healthy. The easy-going life, friendly atmosphere, adequate (although not super-cheap) tourist facilities and general safety make the archipelago a good place to escape from the outside world.

Money Matters:

Colombia is not an expensive country. Some banks change cash and travelers' checks, but others don't. Some branches of a bank will change your money while other branches of the same bank will refuse. This seems to vary constantly from bank to bank, city to city, day to day, etc. On top of that, the banks usually offer foreign exchange services within limited hours, which may mean only one or two hours daily; your best chances are in the morning. You can change cash dollars on the street, but it's not recommended.

The only street money markets worth considering are those at the borders, where there may be simply no alternative. You can use credit cards (Visa is the most widely accepted) for car rental, air tickets and in most top-end hotels and restaurants. Plastic money is also becoming popular for purchasing goods and payment for services in many other commercial establishments. There are an increasing number of cajeros automáticos (automatic teller machines) that accept Visa and MasterCard and pay out in pesos.

Tipping

Taxi drivers expect 10 percent tips. Porters at airports and hotels are usually given roughly 500 pesos per item. Many restaurants, bars and cafes add a 10 percent service charge to the bill or suggest a 10 percent tip.

Support During Your Placement:

We will be available to give you any support, advice, or guidance you may need with any issues. There will always be an emergency number for you to contact. Our aim is to ensure that you have a happy and successful experience during your stay in Colombia.